Retreat from Kyoto: Views around Lake Biwa
Cradled by mountains on three sides, Kyoto has long been a city of refuge – a sacred hideaway where emperors, monks, and poets once sought peace. Its calming and secret atmosphere lingers still: hundreds of temples and shrines hidden along narrow stone lanes and moss-covered steps, seasonal wagashi arranged like small artworks blossoming over lacquered plates, orange lanterns glowing softly at dusk, a fleeting glimpse of a geisha or maiko stepping into a side alley. Drifting between history and the present, every breath, every move becomes a ritual of one’s own.
Yet, just beyond those mountains, a mere half hour by train, lies a landscape that few visitors pause to see.
Lake Biwa is the largest freshwater lake in Japan, situated entirely within Shiga Prefecture, northeast of Kyoto. Over 4 million years old, the lake carries ancient tales with elegance, its crystal blue surface shimmering like countless diamonds on a sunny day. The ‘Eight Views of Ōmi’ emerges from such natural beauty. The phrase refers to eight celebrated scenic spots around the lake in Shiga Prefecture (once called Ōmi), inspired by the ‘Eight Views of Xiaoxiang’ pioneered by the Chinese painter Song Di (1015-1080), who depicted local sceneries in Xiaoxiang on painted albums.
The Ōmi Eight Views closely mirror their Chinese counterpart, sharing core visual motifs such as the full moon over water, night rain, and wild geese in flight. Yet the scenes are transposed onto the landscapes around Lake Biwa and its historic sites — all of which can still be visited today.
The following visual journal records some of the views from both antique and contemporary perspectives.
Ukimidō Floating Hall. A small temple hall built over the lake on stilts at Katata. Watch the rhythmic waves lapping at the shore, and listen as the wooden shrine answers the breeze with the clear chime of its bells.
LAGO. A Japanese patisserie overlooking Lake Biwa, where concrete forms dissolve into the landscape. Industrial interiors frame the endless stretch of blue, turning a simple dessert into a meditation on horizon and sky.
Lake Biwa Marriott Hotel. A modern yet tranquil retreat that blends comfort with the lakeside. From the top-floor restaurant, enjoy a seasonal lunch while gazing over a view so wide and shimmering it feels like the embrace of the sea.
