Memories and Voyages: Shabour, Paris
Paris will always be Paris. A city of cosmopolitan dreams, of travels and meetings between strangers, of romance scattered in every possible corner. All of these come together behind Shabour’s glass panels, a restaurant by Assaf Granit offering an imaginative Jerusalem-inspired tasting menu and wines. It stands quietly behind a street in the 2nd arrondissement, just a few steps from Bourse de Commerce, offering passersby an alluring glance of plums and apricots piling high on silver plates, awaiting the beginning of a lavish dinner party.
The clock strikes six, candles shine brighter as I step into the restaurant – or a friend’s open kitchen, shall we say, with all the seating surrounding the central cooking station. Like sitting around a blazing fire, a communal gathering.
A year has passed, but I cannot seem to forget about the mesmerising dinner that late June night, when, for the first time, I truly felt the mingling of cultures and memories, of a long personal history unfolding itself through the seven-course meal amid friendly chats with the chefs, in a place far removed from home. So here I present to you, through scattered notes written between bites, the voyage of Shabour.
Tour in the Old City
A delicate ensemble of amuse-bouches. What appears to be a sweet puff pastry is filled with savoury, aromatic filling. Crispy thin crust paired with a rich veal tartare. The most surprising part is the tart, with pickled radish outlining the delicious base, vibrant red accents adorning the Jerusalem stone – and suddenly history becomes vivid and tangible.
Afouna ve Gezer XIV
If spring has a taste, it would be this appetiser. A green sauce made from pea pods drizzled over a salad of green beans, carrots, lamb ham, and clams. Visually appealing whilst offering a seasonal delight. The pure sweetness from the vegetables themselves brings a fresh aroma to the palate when paired with dry champagne.
Jordan-san
A dish made with yoghurt, a perfect fusion of Western and Middle-Eastern cuisines. The secret sauce highlights the succulent sweetness of langoustine, the charcoal-grilled fennel like a piece of coral from the ocean floor. The wine pairing is a creamy white wine, and together, the two different milky aromas create a unique harmony of textures.
Haminados
The only dish on the seasonal menu that never changes. Inspired by the chef’s childhood memories, a creamy, smooth sauce gently envelopes the seemingly plain boiled egg. But wait – translucent fish roe extracted from Russian Easter eggs, and as they spread across the white surface, shimmering under candlelight, the dish becomes exceptionally tempting. With warm brioche on the side to finish off the remaining sauce, sweet and fluffy, simply delicious.
The wine pairing differs from the previous glass, much drier with more acidity. The crispy texture perfectly complements the rich flavours of the dish. Pineapple, peach, tropical fruits, and floral notes evoking a warm climate.
Sea, Zhug, and Snapper
Soft sea bass topped with a light, foamy white sauce. The finely chopped raspberry-infused grains add a rich layer of flavour to the fish. On the side, slightly salted seaweed rolls into a bundle, suggestive of a Japanese-style culinary artwork, which perhaps explains the oriental patterns on the edge of the plate.
Hamama Cherie
Tender pigeon meat, paired with various sauces that are slightly heavy, whilst the delicate asparagus cuts through the richness. The bold aroma of Syrah seems light in comparison, like a grand banquet, with layers of spices and precious fruits between voile curtains.
Leeeemon Tart
Probably my favourite dish. Traditional French lemon meringue tart modified to be more summery and light. With sorbet made from Persian lemons, and garnished with candied lemon peel. The tartness is balanced by a subtle bitterness, leaving a refreshing and lingering aftertaste. Paired it with a small glass of Riesling, whose mineral sweetness plays with the fruit’s natural acidity.
The final fruit platter and olive oil-drizzled chocolate mousse are like being constantly urged to stay at a friend’s house, course after course, bringing a fulfilling sense of happiness and satisfaction.
Slightly overwhelmed – by the food, the wine, the atmosphere – and upon inquiring with the chef, I learned that nearly every piece of tableware used for each dish comes from the family collection or is specially custom-made from European ceramic factories. The beautiful patterns and colours indeed make the dishes more vibrant, vividly depicting different stories.
Perhaps a delicious meal is incomplete without storytelling. From Paris to Jerusalem, from Persia to Jordan, past recollections are kneaded and sprinkled into every dish.
And memories come alive.
