Glorious Gloriosa
Located just around the corner from Kelvingrove Park in Glasgow, Gloriosa's white, luminous space immediately draws you in. It certainly lives up to its Instagram caption: ‘Vibrant Mediterranean influenced food & wine from small independent producers’.
Upon entering, a curved wooden bar counter lined with sleek metal smoothly guides one’s vision into the more intimate restaurant area. A large dark green board leans against one of the chairs, with white chalk hastily revealing the special dishes of the day. Playful lamps in shades of orange and silver alternate with pink and mint green sound players, a lovely cacophony of colours well echoed in the restaurant’s selection of abstract artworks adorning the walls.
And the dishes are equally exuberant. Aromatic focaccia cut into generous slices dipped in olive oil, pinkish radishes with crisp leaves clustered around house-made taramasalata. The fresh peas arrive in a massive green heap – layers and layers of leaves, shoots, peas mixed with goat’s curd boldly announcing the best of springtime harvest. Then the fish soup, rich and textured, the saffron mayonnaise painting the toast bread a bright shade of yellow. Every plate is joyfully devoured, but the seasonal asparagus was a particular delight. Immersed in Caesar dressing and topped with soft-boiled egg, the asparagus is Gloriosa’s fun twist on the original Caesar salad. Creamy and savoury, the dressing melts softly against the spears’ earthy bitterness.
Despite not ordering wine, it is easy to speculate what the ambience would be like when the restaurant dims its lights during dinner service, where guests clink glasses over the warm glows and gentle hues of wooden tabletops. But for now, a sherry spritz, recommended by the front of house, satisfies all.
As for dessert, the clementine sorbet with a dazzle of bubbly cava seems like the perfect way to end lunch. Icy sweetness danced with an alcoholic tinge, and there simply are no right words to describe the first moment the sorbet is spooned into the mouth. In short, it is just marvellous. Like eating directly from the citrus groves, embraced by the Mediterranean sunlight.
Gloriosa gives a beautiful splash of colour against the cloudy, grey Scottish sky, a spot worth seeking out when you are in the city – or even better, a reason to plan your visit.
